Lemon from Menton
Menton lemons (a rare French variety belonging to the Rutaceae family) are native to the town and commune of Menton in the Alpes-Maritimes department. Historically, Menton was known for producing fig trees, cereals, vines, and other products, but the first record of citrus cultivation did not occur until 1341. By the 15th century, Menton lemons were being grown in the commune, and the variety gradually increased in popularity, launching the Menton commune as a major citrus grower in France.
In 1671, lemon production became so valuable in France that Prince Louis I established the Lemon Magistrate, a legislative text that regulated the lemon trade. This text listed commands for how growers present their fruits to the public and that all the lemons produced for commercial sale should be graded and of good quality. If any grower failed to comply with the constructed regulations, they could face the punishment of being hoisted into the air and dropped on the ground repeatedly until the sentence has been fulfilled.
The peak of Menton lemon production occurred in the 18th century, and by the mid to late 19th century, the variety was being used by sailors to prevent scurvy and exported to other markets throughout Europe, including Germany, Russia, and England.
At the end of the 19th century, Menton lemon production declined due to disease, the inability to expand the terraced orchards, and unfavourable weather. Production remained low for several decades until growers began to revive the variety in the 1980s. In the 1990s, around 5,000 trees were planted by the Chamber of Agriculture in Menton, and in 2004, the Association Pour La Promotion Du Citron De Menton was created to protect and revitalize Menton lemon cultivation in Menton. The Association eventually raised enough awareness of Menton lemons to receive a PGI or Protected Geographical Indication in 2015.
Today Menton lemons labelled with PGI are only cultivated in five municipalities, including Sainte-Agnès, Castellar, Menton, Gorbio, and Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, and must be grown within 7 kilometres of the coast and below 390 meters in elevation.
The variety is still considered very rare as it is only grown on traditional orchard terraces, limiting the number of fruits that can be developed. It is estimated that there are around fifteen growers in the region that cultivar Menton lemons and approximately 200 tons are produced each year. Menton lemons are sold through fresh markets, directly through growers, and select retailers. The variety is also exported to markets in Europe.
Ripe Menton lemons can be found on the tree simultaneously as flowers and green fruits and will change colour as they ripen. Each tree also has the ability to produce up to fifteen fruits per branch, much higher than the average of five fruits for other lemon varieties. Menton lemons are hand-harvested when ripe, and the fruits are not coated in wax after picking to allow the lemons to remain as natural as possible. Sometimes lemons remain on the tree for over eight months. The fruits are generally picked in varying stages between December to June.
Currently, Menton lemons have experienced a reawakening of the variety's reputation as a culinary delicacy. The transparent to golden yellow flesh is divided into 8 to 9 segments by thin membranes and has an aqueous, tender, and succulent consistency. The flesh also encases a few cream-colored seeds. When choosing Menton lemons, look for fruits with leaves still attached as a sign of freshness. Menton lemons are full of essential oils in the skin, releasing an intense aroma with citronella nuances. The flesh has a sweet, mildly acidic, and tangy flavor.
One of the unique characteristics of this variety is the lack of bitterness in the albedo. This layer has a sweet taste, perfect for a sauces to be paired with long pasta shapes.
Did you know?
With over 316 days of sunshine a year, Menton is virtually untouched by the winter months. A paradise for citrus fruits!
